Much like Holly Golightly gazing at the Tiffany’s window display, you get the feeling that “nothing very bad could happen to you here.” And for good reason: there’s opulent Second Empire décor designed by Jacques Garcia that’s a cross between a brothel and a trip to Egypt, with a lineup that brings together the fashion crowd, beautiful people and bougie tourists with a staff that could just as easily be signed by Elite Models. What matters most here isn’t what’s on the plates, it’s the worldly comedy of manners taking place on the Italian-style patio. But the cuisine can still hold its own! The menu shifts between healthy options (a pricey avocado/olive oil/lemon tartine, fresh bass tartare…) and fusion dishes (crispy chicken spring rolls, a classic Crying Tiger beef made with incredibly tender, Thai-style marinated steak), and luxury room service with the day’s lunchtime options: a beautiful Niçoise salad upgraded to include flash-seared fresh tuna; one of the best club sandwiches in the capital – prepared in the classic way or as a gluten-free version with salmon and avocado; before a divine pavlova with red berries and voluptuous meringue for dessert. // C.C.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s freshly made organic carrot and ginger juice (€12) for a clean conscious, glasses of Bandol rosé from the Domaine OTT (€16) which you can from the early hours, or a bottle of Petrus Pommerol 2009 (€8,000) to max out your credit line.
PRICE: They’re hyperbolic. That’s the price of a hyped-up spot. À la carte €55-210.