It always feels like midnight at noon inside this maison close with an open courtyard, in a space that draws inspiration from the Egyptian Exodus, Ancient Rome and the dark, floral, romantic lounges of Second Empire luxury. Illuminated by candlelight, there aren’t many people but quite a few minor celebrities: red lipstick on glasses of red wine, explosive blond hairdos, razor-sharp shoulder blades, toned bodies, botoxed wrinkles and jaded airs of the glitterati. The food? An excuse to sit on the patio and read the menu that name drops almost as much as the clientele: raw bass from Monsieur Yabé, Kaviari caviar (€120), small crispy chicken spring rolls with Thai basil and a spicy sauce (€20), Mandarina Crispy Duck (€44) and organic chicken with a powerful curry chutney and delicious mashed potatoes! There’s a decadent pavlova with berries (€18) for dessert. For the melancholic diners amongst you, have a glass of Médoc from the Château Chasse-Spleen (€17) and for the stingy ones, a Sauternes Château d’Yquem (€590 a bottle). À la carte €70-205. // M.J.-D.