While the name doesn’t immediately imply it, Le Dallaison was born of the chance encounter between Coralie Le Diraison (bottles) and Jérôme Dallet (who used to work in the kitchens of Emmanuel Renaut and Anne-Sophie Pic). These days, they welcome you into their stylish love nest (a glass ceiling, a brick wall, big wooden tables) for delicate cuisine. The night we went, the €40 menu featured: a fine zucchini blossom stuffed with razor clams and sea beans, with a razor clam and white wine emulsion; pigeon served with a slow-roasted pigeon thigh lollipop made to be eaten with your fingers, plus eggplant caviar and a tiny Cognac-offal tartlet; and an incredibly light and meltingly soft chocolate tart with a fleur de fel shortbread crust to finish. // F.P.
FEELING THIRSTY? An organic Lirac red from the Domaine du Clos de Sixte (€5.40 a glass), a Cévennes white from the Domaine de Berguerolles (€4.50), a Saint-Joseph Poivre et Sol from François Villard (€40 a bottle) and a Grosperrin 1993 Cognac (€12 for 40 ml) for a luxurious digestive.
PRICE: Menus €18.50 (weekday lunch), €26-30, €36-40 (dinner and Saturday lunch in the summer).