A petrol blue façade, minimalist décor, a tiny kitchen, seven tables, 21 guests max, a short menu…. In the category of shoebox-sized bistros, Le Desnoyez really stands out from the crowd. A repentant lawyer, chef Jean-Marc Sinceux really gives it his all – and you can consider us charmed! That night we dug into: a deviled egg with squid ink and bottarga (€6) – or shredded pork served cold in a tonnato sauce (€9); roasted cod with crispy skin and tender meat, with an almond purée and green vegetables (€21) – or a veal hanger steak with anchovies and black olives (€23); before a fromage blanc cake over a berry coulis with preserved cherries and slices of nectarine (€8). To drink, you can’t go wrong: Les Sens du Fruit, a Bergerac from the Château Jonc-Blanc (€5 a glass), La Cabane des Dolomies, a Côtes-du-Jura (€38 a bottle), or a Croatian pilsner from The Garden Brewery (€6 for 330 ml). Set menus €18-21 (weekday lunch), à la carte €34-50. // C.P.