After giving up his spot in the Saint-Pierre neighborhood, you’ll now find Gilles Davasse in Saint-Michel, running this wine bar with a superb selection of natural juices, blonde wooden shelves and a communal table. His accomplice, Valérie Mata, sends out tapas combos like a pro. For us, the other night: exquisite tender white beans seasoned with ponzu; tasty La Réunion-style finger food (steamed pork and kaffir lime dumplings); before a lemony cheesecake on a shortbread crust. On Sundays, a nice menu brings together more hearty dishes – asparagus mimosa, haddock and dill brandade or veal axoa, and a gâteau nantais with lime cream. // R.deC.
FEELING THIRSTY? Around 200 labels from the superheroes of the genre (Pfifferling, Métras, Jobard), including a few local gems: a sparkling Sauternes from the Domaine de L’Alliance (€7.50 a glass), an explosive Graves red from Le Clos 19 Bis (€25 a bottle) or Les Varrons, a Côtes-du-Jura Chardonnay from Julien Labet (€41).
PRICE: Tapas €6.50 to €14.50, menus €17-20 (Sunday).