The 3rd generation of Le Florida shouldn’t feel embarrassed in its new skin. Taking over from his father, who in turn took over for his mother, Baptiste Ramouneda, helped by chef Marc Abramovici, only works with the best ingredients: eggs from the Puntoun farm in Saint-Martin; seafood from Olano in Saint-Jean-de-Luz; meats and offal from Arcadie in Auch or La Maison Tête in Valence-sur-Baïse, etc. For us at lunch, nothing too heavy: a stunning homemade boudin noir that was both firm and tender; then turbot filets cooked on the skin-side, served with leeks, carrots, broad beans and a concentrated jus aux sucs; before the house starlet, an apple croustade that was balanced, sweet and devastatingly good, refreshed by a plum and Armagnac ice cream. To drink, there’s Floc de Gascogne (€5.50 a glass), Chiroulet blanc Côte d’Eheux (€27 a bottle), Entras Rouge (€23). Lunch set menu €14 (except Sunday), 6-course menu €60 (with food and wine pairings + €15), à la carte €25-40. // R.M.