Along the bike path and far from the boulevards, it’s almost impossible not to be charmed by Le Forestier, a beautiful 120-year-old chalet that was spruced up in 2018 by Emmanuel Renaut and Nano Fanara (La Sauvageonne). Choose between the terrace with plastic tables, gingham tablecloths and a good amount of sun, or the cozy interior with paneled walls and old hardwood floors. It’s an unfussy rustic setting, just like the short, affordable local menu: a quiche of potatoes and local cheese with a red cabbage salad on the side (€18); onion and mushroom tart (€18); pot-au-feu (€30) or charcuterie platters – venison saucisson, bacon from Arnad and homemade terrine, €22. For us, at lunch: four thick slices of trout smoked in house, with lime zest, lemon, crispbread and AOP butter (€23); then the chef’s wild bolognaise, spooned over egg tagliatelle (€36); before an excellent montblanc – a dome of raw mascarpone dressed up with chestnut cream and meringue on the side (€12). At the risk of skiing in circles: Roussette-de-Savoie from the Château de la Mar (€8 a glass), Avalanche, a Mondeuse from Trosset (€8), or Apremont from Blard (€29 a bottle). À la carte €40-71. // A.S.