His victory on Top Chef may be ancient history, but Romain Tischenko isn’t done seducing taste buds around the beautiful Place Sainte-Marthe. To support his restaurant with a fine reputation (yellow bar, brick walls, blackboard menus) all while juggling the wine bar next door (La Cave à Michel), the chef with tousled hair has surrounded himself with a talented team. In the dining room, his brother Maxime guides curious diners, while in the kitchen, the young chef Jason Gouzy unveils lovely animal-vegetal combos on the €58 menu. The other night: a tangy veal and kumquat tartare – or octopus under a red onion emulsion; minimalist wagyu beef with fingerling potatoes, seaweed and nettle – or some heartening cod with wild garlic and pears; before a chocolate crisp with hazelnut cream, for the less inspired finale. To drink, there’s nothing but clean wines: a natural Sancerre, Les Quarterons, from Sébastien Riffaut (€7 a glass), a biodynamic Gamay from Jean Delobre (€32 a bottle) or a Sancerre from Sebastien Riffault (€42). Menu €58, à la carte €42-53. // N.K.