Le Galopin

It’s such a treat to lounge around under the trees on Place Sainte-Marthe, especially when you’re hanging out at Le Galopin… The cheeky restaurant from the Tischenko brothers (Maxime in the dining room and Romain in the kitchen) is still galloping along with its yellow Formica bar, brick walls and bistro chairs. For us, the day we went for lunch, the mischievous prix-fixe lunch menu featured: excellent flash-seared mackerel, za’atar and peach – or a lovely beef tataki with clams; superb brandade with a fresh herb salad – or a chic pork loin with chanterelles, Chasselas and sage butter; before a fig and peanut ganache – or a financier with greengage plums and buttermilk. At night, there are even more slaps of flavor to the face on the brazen tasting menu: zucchini, stracciatella and trout roe; yellow Gers pullet, coco de Paimpol beans and corn, etc. // J.-N.F.

FEELING THIRSTY? There are naturally saucy wines: Arbalète et Coquelicot, a Minervois red from Jean-Baptiste Senat (€6.50 a glass, €32 a bottle); Xinomavro, a young vine Greek red from the Thymiopoulos estate (€36); or Hypothèse, a Roussillon white from Riberach (€52)…

PRICE: Prix-fixe menus €20-24 (weekday lunch) and €58 (dinner), à la carte €28-42.