Biggest Crush of 2019
The SNCF may have abandoned the Gyé train station, but in 2018 a group of friends brought it back to life! Along with some additional help from others, Juan Sanchez (Semilla and Freddy’s in Paris), Emilie and Cédric Bouchard (winemakers in Champagne), and Peter Lippmann (photographer) transformed this merchandise warehouse into an XXL restaurant: high ceilings, giant sliding doors, glass-speckled tiling, an open kitchen/bar, a delightful platform-terrace, 55 seats and an opulent organic garden where tomatoes, peppers, melons, shiso and more all grow… You’ll find chefs Gil Nogueira (who just left Le Grand Bain in Paris) and his partner Sayaka Sawaguchi picking vegetables from the patch, cooking up a lunch menu for next to nothing: creamy lentil soup (whole and puréed lentils) topped with fermented tomatillos and yogurt; irresistible little balls of fried guinea fowl from the Ferme du Champ Collin over strips of marinated cucumber and corn kernels; poached mirabelle plums intensified by a crumble topping and a tea leaf ice cream. At night and on Saturdays, things get even more elaborate… In the giant fireplace fueled on organic grape vines, you’ll find oysters, vegetables in salt crusts, whole pieces of pig or lamb cooking (along with fish bones smoking to make dashi broth…), which share the stage with dishes like lamb tartare with mustard seeds, sorrel, slow-roasted tomatoes, tarragon cream and fromage blanc ice cream. // G.D.
FEELING THIRSTY? Dive into the Cottet-Dubreuil fields, with a Pinot-Chardonnay (€35 a bottle) that pairs perfectly with the meal. Otherwise, there’s Corail, a Provence rosé from the Château de Roquefort (€4.50); Côte du Py, a Morgon from Jean Foillard (€8.70); Sylvaner Vieilles Vignes from André Ostertag (€30 a bottle); Enlèvement Demandé, an Anjou red from Nicolas Réau (€33)… and around 60 magnums!
PRICE: Menu €18 (weekday lunch) and €32 (dinner and Saturday lunch), à la carte €33-37, shared cuts €60 (for 2 to 3 people).