restaurant

Le Garde-Champêtre

Le Garde-Champêtre (Gyé-sur-Seine)

© Le Garde Champêtre

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Ever since this former SNCF train station was taken over by a group of friends – Juan Sanchez (Semilla and Freddy’s in Paris), Emilie and Cédric Bouchard (winemakers in the Champagne region) and Peter Lippmann (a photographer) –, gourmet diners from in and around Gyé know where to go for something good to eat. What should you expect? A restaurant with immensely high ceilings, terrazzo tiling, a big kitchen-bar and a terrace, which rolls out onto a hefty one-hectare organic vegetable patch, where chefs Sakaya Sawaguchi and Gil Nogueira go to pick their produce, with a helping hand from Nathan Fallowfield and José Neves. The day we went for lunch the menu featured: sardines marinated in vinegar and delicate tomatoes from the garden, plus good homemade sourdough bread for saucing up the juices; a hearty flank steak from La Ferme de Clavisy, dry-aged for eight weeks and served flash-seared with a tasty potato gratin; before a floating panna cotta infused with hay and paired with poached peaches. At night and on the weekends, the monumental fireplace embraces the entire pantry: leeks, oysters, line-caught swordfish, lamb shoulder… Can’t decide what to order? The chefs make your life easier with a five-course tasting menu. Good call. // G.B.

FEELING THIRSTY? A Savennières from the Domaine de la Bergerie (€8.70 a glass), a sweet Loire wine from François Chidaine (€57 a bottle), a Coteaux-Champenois red from Robert Barbichon (€49)… And even forty-some Champagnes, including Les Bulles de Comptoir from Charles Dufour (€59).

PRICE: Prix-fixe menus €22 (weekday lunch), €38 (dinner and weekends), plates €6-19.

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

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