restaurant

Le Garde-Manger

Le Garde-Manger (Paris)

© Pierre Monetta

  • Date
  • share

In the affluent 17th arrondissement, Laura Portelli’s Le Garde-Manger keeps all those who cry “I don’t have the time” happy. At this former delicatessen (a burgundy terrazzo façade, beautiful painted ceilings from the 1900s, a shiny meat slicer), you can really make the most of the delicious food. It all comes out from the twirling Papillon restaurant next door, run by her partner Christophe Saintagne, with whom Laura shares a kitchen. The day we went for lunch, selected from the big enameled dishes in the refrigerated bar display: a delicious vegetarian plate with zucchini, caponata, perfect tomatoes and Greek-style mushrooms; a cushion-like homemade salmon focaccia; cheeky pork belly slow-cooked in red wine; and to finish the job on a high note, a perfect chocolate lava cake. Before leaving, grab some of the rather gourmet canned goods: José Gourmet sardines, Monograno Felicetti pasta, Cédric Casanova olive oil, etc. // J.-N.M.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a beautiful selection straight from Papillon’s collection: a Beaujolais white from the Domaine des Marrans at €10 a glass, an Alsace-Riesling from Mann (€25 a bottle), a Cobières red from the Château La Baronne (€18)…

PRICE: Sandwiches €7, plates €15-19, desserts €5-6.

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
I WANT IT!

About

Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

Fooding® is a registered trademark.