Le Garde-Manger

Le Garde-Manger (Paris)

© Pierre Monetta

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In the affluent 17th arrondissement, Laura Portelli’s Le Garde-Manger keeps all those who cry “I don’t have the time” happy. At this former delicatessen (a burgundy terrazzo façade, beautiful painted ceilings from the 1900s, a shiny meat slicer), you can really make the most of the delicious food. It all comes out from the twirling Papillon restaurant next door, run by her partner Christophe Saintagne, with whom Laura shares a kitchen. The day we went for lunch, selected from the big enameled dishes in the refrigerated bar display: a delicious vegetarian plate with zucchini, caponata, perfect tomatoes and Greek-style mushrooms; a cushion-like homemade salmon focaccia; cheeky pork belly slow-cooked in red wine; and to finish the job on a high note, a perfect chocolate lava cake. Before leaving, grab some of the rather gourmet canned goods: José Gourmet sardines, Monograno Felicetti pasta, Cédric Casanova olive oil, etc. // J.-N.M.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a beautiful selection straight from Papillon’s collection: a Beaujolais white from the Domaine des Marrans at €10 a glass, an Alsace-Riesling from Mann (€25 a bottle), a Cobières red from the Château La Baronne (€18)…

PRICE: Sandwiches €7, plates €15-19, desserts €5-6.

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