Le Jeu de Quilles
A gigantic table d’hôte, chic tapas at night and a handful of wines (Côtes-du-Jura from the Château d’Arlay for €21 a bottle, a Mâcon-Verzé from Nico Maillet for €26, a Châteauneuf-du-Pape from the Domaine de la Janasse for €46…). That’s the Besson brothers’ (Guillaume is the chef, Grégoire is the oenologist) recipe for happiness, dreamt up in their tiny kitchen/restaurant with plenty of winemaker’s charm. They serve a wonderful feast at lunch: a slice of whole chicken cooked in a pastry crust with foie gras, port and dried fruit stuffing; intimidating thick-cut pork chops served in a cast iron casserole with petit pois à la française, a sage sauce and potato espuma (€15); before a Bardouin pastis panna cotta over a strawberry coulis (€4). And for an extra bonus, €4 will get you special access to the B.O.F. de la Martinière cheese platter! At night, there are majestic tapas: whole chicken cooked in a pastry crust, caillette, platters of charcuterie and cheese – all ranging from €3 to €16. To drink, try a Bugey red from the Maison Bonnard or a Languedoc Belle Fontaine (€4 a glass). Amuse bouche + main €13-20, desserts €4 to €6.50. // A.S.