After putting in their time at Le Chateaubriand and Le Verre Volé, plus a stint at Les Deux Amis along the way, Paul Boudier and Albert Touton have now taken over Le Maquis! With Salvatore Rotiroti (Il Brigante) as a partner, they’ve finally got a HQ to call their own: an old dive named after the former neighborhood moniker, with its original Basque red façade, old tile floors and crimson benches. With the help of Roman in the dining room, this thruple sent out an avalanche of tasty plates the night we went: a gory and formidable snack of grey shrimp fried alive to get things started; a sexy mussel bisque infused with thyme; their signature morcilla intensified by a persillade and pickled onions; fresh tagliatelle with tomatoes, chickpeas and guanciale; devastatingly good cod with beurre blanc and smoked roe; incredibly tender slices of chuck steak served with grilled artichokes, wild arugula and anchovies; before a stunning Paris-Brest with hazelnuts from Calabria. // J.G.
FEELING THIRSTY? Choose from a short list of living wines: a Loire white, Le Puits, from Olivier Lemasson (€5 a glass), an Aude red from the Domaine du Temps (€36 a bottle), an Hérault from Le Mas Foulaquier (€38)…
PRICE: Set menus €16-18 (weekday lunch), à la carte €33-37 (dinner and Saturday lunch).