Ever since Le Maquis replaced La Cave de la Villa (incidentally, the painted wooden sign still lingers behind), the small Rue des Cloÿs has made its way onto the Parisian bistro map! The duo responsible for this feat? Paul Boudier and Albert Touton (ex-Chateaubriand, Aux Deux Amis, Le Verre Volé), who delight their neighborhood with this tiny bistro decked out with original tiling, a long bar and crimson banquettes. The other day at lunch, our incredible €20 prix-fixe menu included: a fresh tomato/cucumber soup electrified by trout roe that burst on the tongue; admiral breaded skate wing with broccoli, beans cooked al dente and a wonderfully herby tartar sauce – or rabbit stewed with peppers, cherry tomatoes, olives, capers, onions and Mediterranean herbs, served with lots of sauce over olive oil mashed potatoes; before an ultra-generous and none-too-sweet fig clafoutis. At night, the chefs keep the good times rolling à la carte: pigeon from the Perche region, porcini mushrooms from the Vosges, a tamarind jus, shiso and apple purée; mackerel flame-seared aburi-style with a tomato vinaigrette and bottarga; monkfish from Plouguerneau, sorrel and turnips, plus a smoked pike roe beurre blanc sauce; satsuma mandarin sorbet; Paris-Brest; pear tarte Tatin… // M.M.
FEELING THIRSTY? An entirely natural wine selection: a Franc-Comtois Melon from La Soeur Cadette (€6 a glass), a Loire pet’ nat’ white from Alexis Hudon (€7), a Roussillon red from the Domaine du Bout du Monde (€28 a bottle), Tsolikouri, a Georgian macerated white from Okro’s Wines (€48)…
PRICE: Menu €17-19 (weekday lunch), à la carte €30-42 (dinner).