Le Guide Fooding’s Best Catch of 2016
The Delaby family has been catching salty treasures for eight generations now! Come for a taste of these beautiful treats captured by the father a few maritime miles from here, before being shucked by the youngest son, Pierre-Alain. In this clean little spot (azure blue shutters, cushioned armchairs) he fashions unfussy plates, where only seafood has supreme rights: a bouquet of chopped whelks with leeks and kaffir lime (€14); garlicky croutons floating on a fish velouté made from locally-caught fish (€22); a whole one-kilo turbot to share (€60); or a wild bass steak swimming in a bass bone fumet with white wine (€32). Our only complain is the rather ordinary sides: potato gratin with Breton seaweed, or crisp baby vegetables… To drink, there’s a Sancerre Les Châtaigniers (€39 a bottle) or a Chardonnay from the Domaine Laroche with yeasty notes (€24). Apéro option for €8 (three oysters + a glass of wine), à la carte €38-43. // M.P.