Phew, the future of the most vibrant café in West Paris is in good hands! After the talented Manon Fleury, now it’s time for the very young chef Thomas Graham (ex-Äponem) to rock the boat at Le Mermoz – mosaic tile floors, a J-shaped bar and Art Deco light fixtures. For us, the day we went for lunch, surrounded by busy white-collar workers and won-over foodies: a marvelous French onion soup that kicked things off on a good note, with a licorice espuma and pearls of almonds and trout roe; a vitalizing vitello tonnataglazed with mayo, under a heap of castelfrancosprinkled with capers and sweet chilies – unless you opt for the roasted duck breast on a bed of buttery cabbage, like the next table over did; before shortbread topped with slices of blood orange under a cloud of honey-infused whipped cream, for the sunny dessert… Masterful! At night, make way for swinging small plates: spinach and roasted wakame butter; purple broccoli with brioche and a Stichelton cream; red oca, pesto and sea lettuce… // Aïtor Alfonso
FEELING THIRSTY ? Wash it all down with something natural: a Angevin Pineau-d’Aunis from the Vaillant family (€7 a glass), a Catalan Grenache white from Frisach (€8), a Tours Chenin from Lise and Bertrand Jousset (€35 a bottle), a red blend from Jeff Coutelou in the Hérault department (€50)…
PRICE : À la carte €38-49 (lunch), small plates €8-15 (dinner).