Of the discerning bistrophile’s ten commandments, we’re not sure this one made the cut: “When your stomach starts to rumble, rush on over to the 8th!” Why, you ask? For Le Mermoz of course! Sitting on a street of the same name, this place is looking to be a game-changer in the Palais de l’Élysée neighborhood. 300 meters from Macron’s digs, this old bistro has recently changed ownership, and has been barely refreshed by a few light brushstrokes, but the occupants kept the faded awning, the original tiling and the moody atmosphere. In the dining room, the mischievous Nicolas Chimot and Charles de Clerfayt distribute bottles of natural wine and creations made by Manon Fleury, the expert young chef who previously worked at L’Astrance and Sémilla. Served à la carte the day we went for lunch: delicate winter clams in a virgin broth with cilantro and lemon, intensified by kasha (€8); perfectly cooked chicken from Saint-Antonin infused with savory and served with a delicate longue de Nice squash purée (€22); before a tarte tatin with a scoop of raw cream (€8). To quench your thirst, there are a few wines served by the glass, including a nice Cheverny from the Domaine des Huards (€7) and some beautiful bottles to inspire you, like the Muscadet from the Domaine de l’Ecu (€28) or the Côtes-du-Roussillon, Les Sorcières (€36). At night, it turns into a tapas and wine bar (gnocchi with squash, savory butter; roasted celery, pralines, a pear condiment; charcuterie from the Ardèche… from €6 to €12 a plate). À la carte €32-41. // S.L.