Le Mermoz

Le Mermoz (Paris)

© Le Mermoz

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Phew! The future of West Paris’ most vibrant café is in good hands! After the talented Manon Fleury, now it’s time for chef Thomas Graham (ex-Äponem) to rock the boat at Le Mermoz (mosaic tile floors, a J-shaped bar and Art Deco light fixtures). The day we went for lunch, surrounded by busy white-collar workers and won-over foodies, we nibbled on: a marvelous French onion soup that kicked things off on a good note, with a licorice espuma and embellished with almonds and trout roe; a vitalizing vitello tonnata glazed with mayo under a heap of frilly castelfranco sprinkled with capers and sweet chilies – unless you opt for the roasted duck breast on a bed of buttery cabbage, like the next table over did; before a sunny shortbread topped with slices of blood orange under a cloud of honey-infused whipped cream… Masterful! At night make way for swinging small plates: spinach and roasted wakame butter; purple broccoli with brioche and a Stichelton cream; red oca, pesto and sea lettuce… // Aïtor Alfonso

FEELING THIRSTY? Wash it all down with something natural: an Angevin Pineau-d’Aunis from the Vaillant family (€7 a glass), a Catalan Grenache white from Frisach (€8), a Tours Chenin from Lise and Bertrand Jousset (€35 a bottle), a red blend from Jeff Coutelou in the Hérault department (€50)…

PRICE: À la carte €38-49 (lunch), small plates €8-20 (dinner).

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