High ceilings, rough brick walls, original hardwood floors, Scandinavian furniture, spider-like light fixtures, a windowed kitchen, wallpaper… Le Mordant is a real looker! And the subtle fusion dishes are no less stunning. On the lunch menu (€24), the day we went: a very fresh beef tataki with sliced avocado and lemon zest – or a hard-boiled egg cooked in smoked tea, with a wasabi-infused mayonnaise; thick and tender grilled ribs, served with delicious crispy fries on the side – or Breton hake with spelt and spinach; and to finish, an impossible choice between Timut peppercorn cheesecake or some excellent cheeses from the Saint-Quentin farmer’s market… At night, chef Lucas Blanchy intensifies things even more: tender veal sweetbreads with a rich jus de veau, beef cheeks cooked for 10 hours with a sweet Cévennes onion compote…. And for something to wet your lips with, there’s a beautiful wine list with 90 organic-natural bottles, including a red VDF, La Butte, from Le Clos Tue Boeuf (€7 a glass), an Aligoté from the Domaine Sextant (€35 a bottle) or a splendid Piemont Langhe, Nebbiolo, from the Mascarello & figlio estate (€110). At lunch (from Monday to Friday), set menu for €20 and menu for €24. At night, à la carte €37-48. Sunday roast €27. // D.C.