Le Moulin de Civadoux
Much to the great delight of hikers, tourists and even Jean Ducoin, naturophile twin sisters, Béatrice and Sophie, have been running this former oat mill turned paysan restaurant with a serious locavore menu for the past 38 years… The bread is cooked in a wood-fired oven, the herbs are grown in the garden, the vegetables arrive from L’Alternateur (a cooperative in Sauxillanges), the trout is from an organic fish farm across the way, and the pork is pampered by Didier Archimbaud in Aulhaut-Saint-Privat. The day we went for lunch, we had the “Gargamelle” buffet for €19: beautiful open sandwiches topped with meat-free pâtés (lentils and nettle pesto) made on thyme and rosemary bread; delicate organic trout with a light smoky flavor, stuffed with good grilled ham, roasted in the oven and served with spiced zucchini (curry, ginger, cumin) and semolina with raisins, plus a flaky pastry filled with nettle, eggplant and sheep’s milk feta; before a delicious baba au rhum served with the day’s blackberries (whole berries and coulis) and a homemade strawberry sorbet. To drink, there’s a Côtes-du-Rhône from Elodie Balme (€3 a glass), a red from the Gard served by the pitcher (€6 for 500 ml), or local La Damoiselle beer (€3.30 for 330 ml). “Gargamelle” set menus €10-19 (€22 Sunday). Payment by card not accepted. // P.L.