Le Myrobolant

Strategically located in full sun for summer days, Le Myrobolant has a big corner terrace, while inside behind its windowed façade, there’s a quintessential cheeky bistro feel with moleskin benches, a wooden bar and Formica tables. It’s simple, fresh and always lively – Mathilde Boitel, Nicolas Robert and Yannick Laurent have truly opened up the ideal neighborhood joint. The day we went for lunch, the €16.50 set menu was composed of dishes that were as luminous as the space itself: small fried anchovies with mayonnaise and pickles – or a very fresh burratina with green asparagus and pine nuts; then a classic roast chicken with golden potatoes and a decent jus – or creamy cacio e pepe risotto sprinkled with broad beans. During the day, the Marzocca spits out excellent espresso, and at night, there are cool tapas plates to share: panisse fries, suckling pig, octopus with cauliflower and lovage… // J.L.

FEELING THIRSTY? There are clean wines selected by Mathilde (ex-Saturne): a fresh Avis D’Blanc from Le Mas des Caprices (€4.50 a glass), a Jurançon noir (€3.50), a Loire red from Pithon-Paillé (€33 a bottle), along with La Bise lagerfrom the Brasserie Duyck (€5 a pint), dry cider from La Vallée de la Seiche (€2 for 120 cl) and Esperanza coffee (€2).

PRICE: Dish of the day €14, set menus from €16.50 to €18.50 (weekday lunch). Shared plates €5-18.