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Le Petit Comptoir de la Nive

Le Petit Comptoir de la Nive (Bayonne)

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Joined together in both the kitchen and the eyes of the law, youngsters Paul Ducamp (ex-Table de Sébastien Gravé in Bayonne and Avant-Comptoir du Palais in Bordeaux) and Garance Gatuingt are now squatting this lovely dive on the banks of the Nive River, with stone walls, a slender wooden bar and a big communal table out back. The day we went for lunch, the following creations graced our plates: grilled asparagus with grated Parmesan, pickled red onion, pine nuts and borage sprouts, all titillated by a soft-boiled egg vinaigrette; langoustine tartare flawlessly prepared and gently spiced with piment d’Espelette, swimming in a tzatziki-style cucumber milk, with pickled cucumber balls and garden burnet; and to round out the meal on a sweet note, a very rich vanilla rice pudding with cinnamon and lemon zest. // Gérard Roubeix

FEELING THIRSTY? A Muscadet from Julien Braud (€5 a glass), a Côtes-de-Gascogne red from the Domaine Entras (€20 a bottle), Large Soif, an Anjou white (€25)… Unless you’d rather opt for a Kupela cider (€5 for 330 ml), a Balea beer (€6 for 330 ml) or an Otso Gin and Tonic (€10).

PRICE: Set menu €16 (lunch), mains €6-15, desserts €5-6.

Late-night munchies?

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2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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