Le Petit Pan

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Camped out across from Le Grand Pan, the Benoît Gauthier’s second spot provides the neighborhood with rowdy tapas in a bodega ambiance (a zinc bar, high tables, a TV playing sports games…). For us, the night we went: spicy pan-fried chorizo with cauliflower purée; good Petit-Pan-style pork trotters; small Royans ravioli with gorgonzola; impeccable toasts topped with flash-seared boudin noir and apple compote; half a burrata with Kalios olive oil and fleur de sel; or round chouquettes with an unctuous vanilla cream. At lunch, there’s an efficient appetizer-main-dessert set menu, featuring the likes of: eggs with wholegrain mustard mayonnaise, braised beef cheeks and ice creams and sorbets from Maison Alpérel. // L.P.

FEELING THIRSTY? There are forty-some hand-selected bottles: a Petit-Chablis from the Domaine Millet or a Montpeyroux red Col du Vent (€5 a glass), a white Mâcon-Bussières from Les Clos Joseph Drouhin (€27 a bottle) or a Sancerre red X from Domaine Fouassier (€49).

PRICE: Set menu €16.50 to €20.50 (lunch), tapas €4-13 (dinner).

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