We’d already spotted Pablo Tweer, a towering disheveled German, and his Mexican wife, Abigail, at Tête d’Ail, an 18th century inn in the Tarn-et-Garonne department. They arrived in La Ville Rose in 2018, with their brood and pots and pans in tow, and now the couple spends the school year cooking up popular dishes in a corner joint with whitewashed walls and Chicano souvenirs. The day we went for lunch, the menu featured: a rich parsnip velouté tattooed with a cloud of onion ash and intensified by delicious piece of submerged caramelized fennel; chic lamb shoulder prepared as a tender shawarma, with a pomegranate molasses sauce and some Ottolenghi-esque sides – hummus, cream of carrot, vinegary turnips and roasted fennel with olive caramel; before a cheesecake with raspberry pulp. // R.deC.
FEELING THIRSTY? Hearty,organic wines: a Côtes-de-Gascogne red from the Domaine Séailles (€3.50 a glass), a Gaillac red from the Domaine de Matens (€17 a bottle) or a Gaillacois white from the Domaine de Matens (€17 a bottle).
PRICE: Menu €17.