Le Pourquoi Pas
Built in 1872 for the Faber family, this multi-functional cliffside villa became a marine station under Commander Charcot and then an aquarium (!), before architect Sandra Benhamou recently transformed it into a chic vintage hotel, combining seaside and Art Deco influences (dark green mosaic tiles, marble and brass details). It’s an incredible spot with views of the Saint-Malo ramparts, where you can dine in a luminous dining room or on the rooftop terrace. The day we went for lunch, the new captain Julien Hennote (ex-L’Etrier in Deauville) skillfully navigated the nice “Hamilton” menu (€55) and his food and wine pairings (+€20): marinated and flash-seared little tunny fillet paired with minestrone – perfect with a white Anjou from the Domaine Patrick Baudouin; crispy pork belly rubbed with Timut peppercorns, served with sautéed squid and crushed peanuts – obviously delightful with a Crozes-Hermitage from Laurent Combier; before a blue cheese and Breton whiskey emulsion over a beetroot sorbet and an almond cookie topped with Mirabelle plums confit. Menus €28-35 (weekday lunch), €55, €75, €85 and €110. À la carte €67-99. // S.L.