Deep blue tones, Art Deco wallpaper, a solid wood bar and tables, grey tiling, ceramic tableware… It seems that Le Rousseau got a beautiful makeover during the summer of 2019! But the kitchen is still the domain of Elie Michel-Villaz (formerly of the École Hôtelière Lesdiguières), who unveils punchy and seasonal plates. The night we went, the €32 menu had the right idea: for the thespian starter, a superb œuf parfait atop an endive emulsion, with cubes of smoked eel, horseradish and lime; then something a little more classic, with veal chops encircled by beetroot gnocchi, broccoli purée and a hay jus; before a very sweet but tasty dessert of shortbread served with apple compote and tonka bean ice cream. // O.J.
FEELING THIRSTY? 100% natural drinks: a Côtes-du-Jura white from the Domaine Labet (€9 a glass), a Tavel from Pfifferling (€8.50), a glorious Chablis from Alice and Olivier de Moor (€54 a bottle), a Saumur-Champigny from Bobinet (€40)…
PRICE: Menus €18.50 to €23 (weekday lunch) and €33-39 (dinner and Saturday at lunch).
