Le Taxi Jaune
With an Art Deco feel (vintage mosaics, a beautiful wooden bar, stone walls), recipes from yesteryear and beyond, an older clientele…. Just how old is Otis Lebert, the chef of this old-fashioned Taxi Jaune? Surprisingly, he’s not even 40! But he’s got a very simple approach: work with seasonal, monthly ingredients (written out on the blackboard menu). Which gives (on the €18 set lunch menu option) in this month of September: a lively shredded cod salad with celery and cherry tomatoes; an excellent steamed dorade fillet with quinoa, ratatouille and a bisque sauce; and a very good chilled nougat with pistachios and a strawberry coulis. Really classic, really simple, really yummy! At night, he serves really good plates as well with things like grilled horse steak with raw porcini mushrooms. And to drink, good, authentic, natural wines: a white from the Ardèche by Souhaut (€7 a glass), Gaillac from Les Causses Marines, Côtes-Catalanes from Olivier Pithon… (starting at €16 a bottle). FYI: the Otis épicierie across the street sells all of his favorite products: wines, fruit juices, honeys, chocolates…. Set menu option €18-19 (lunch), à la carte €43-61. // J.G.