Le Temps des Vendanges
Amandine and Eric Cuestas have been championing chemical-free wines for around 15 years now, and they’ve got Clément Rogé (who won the best sommelier for the Southwest terroirs in 2018, s’il vous plaît!) to back them up. They’re camped out near Saint-Cyprien, surrounded by innumerable bottles – Nicq, Dard et Ribo, Pfifferling, Renaud… Once night falls, the trio pop open their wines and pair them with beautiful artisanal charcuterie, cheeses from Maison Xavier (where the MOF cheesemonger Franços Bourgon works) and a few cheeky dishes made with Aveyron meat and seafood from Saint-Jean-de-Luz. For us, the night we went: duck breast from La Ferme du Roc, slow-cooked down to the bone – or a Pyrenees trout tartare; a simple and delicious hanger steak with shallots and sautéed potatoes – or a brilliant flash-seared hake fillet with a whipped fumet, peas, carrots and young garlic; before a classic apple crumble. // A.S.
FEELING THIRSTY? Only very good things: a Gard red from Jean-François Nicq (€4.60 a glass), La Sagesse, a Côtes-du-Rhône red from Gramenon (€28 a bottle), a Chablis from Alice and Olivier De Moor (€41), a Saint-Joseph red from Jean-Louis Chave (€81), a Cornas from Thierry Allemand (€103)…
PRICE: Platters €15-18, à la carte €22-37.