Le Trois Quarts
Opened in September of 2018, this atmospheric bistro where you can chill around the bar (organic wines, pastis, half-pints on tap) or lick your lips in the back has a cheeky and musical vibe. In a space with stripped-bare walls, hardwood floors, and a blackboard menu, we love the well-balanced small plates whipped up effortlessly by Marie Dijon (ex-Grain de Sel): octopus, crab and mint springrolls served with cocktail sauce; addictive palourde clams cooked with n’duja and served with a mountain of red cabbage and scallions; divinely fatty pork belly with red pepper ketchup; whiskey-infused chicken liver mousse; mussels baked with herbs; before an unusual pavlova with litchi and lemon thyme mousse, strawberries and a raspberry jus. At lunch, there’s a cheeky bistro set menu with, for example, whelks and mayo, mackerel and mashed potatoes with lemon confit, plus roasted pineapple with ginger-infused rum for dessert. // J.G.
FEELING THIRSTY? Everything comes up clean: a white Loup y es-tu from the Domaine de L’Hortus (€4.50 a glass), a red Côtes-du-Rhône, Parallèle 45 from Jaboulet (€5) or a Roussillon Tourbillon de la Vie from Jean-Philippe Padié (€34 a bottle).
PRICE: Set menus €18-22 (lunch), plates €7-13.