The most spectacular element of the tiny, chic Vagabond (black tiles, bare bricks, copper pots and white tablecloths) is Nicolas Pourcheresse himself! The bearded, tattooed Viking chef from the Jura crafts insane, generous mystery menus, using vegetables still covered in morning dew from his garden. For us, the night we went (€80): an extravagant nougatine and charcoal brioche; cabbage in a salty cream; a Thai sardine soup poured over a coal-roasted John Dory, shared between diners; mashed potatoes with jus de viande that’ll have you crying out for seconds; mushroom broth with nutmeg; a smoked paprika meringue before white onion papillottes with crushed sugared almonds! The wines? They’re served by the glass: a Savagnin-Ouillé from the Domaine de la Pinte, a Castillon-Côtes-de-Bordeaux from the Château d’Aiguillhe (€8 and €10). Menus €35 (lunch) and €80. Online reservations with pre-payment are obligatory. // P.A.