With its polished light-wood furniture, old-fashioned dishes and 1920s patina, in Le Voltaire’s two connected dining rooms, it feels a bit like a museum showing off antique recipes of the past. On one side, there’s a corner brasserie with a short blackboard menu, where you can you can unearth some historic recipes like the house’s “James” deviled eggs (with beets, salad and cucumber, €8.50), a svelte flank steak with shallots backed up by piperade and homemade matchstick fries (€21), or a fig-pistachio tartelette under a glass bell (€10.50). On the other side, there’s an old-fashioned restaurant with a longer menu: veal kidneys in a mustard sauce (€51.50), roasted poussin with tarragon (€44), sole meunière (€42)… Plus, they sell the same deviled eggs as in the other room, but at their original price: 90 cents a piece! For dessert, there’s a home-style tarte tatin (€15) or even chocolate mousse that you serve yourself (€19.50). The wines also have two speeds: a Sancerre from the Domaine Franck Millet (€8.50 a glass), a Coteaux-d’Aix red from the Château Calissanne (€30 a bottle) or Petrus 1966 for €4,650. À la carte €40-155. // A.A.