Le Yacht Club
After bringing a little Nice sunshine to East Paris, Olivier Chini and Luc Sananes, the testosterone-filled owners of Les Niçois and the ephemeral Riviera, have decided to raise their sails and head north. That is, to the southern tip of the SoPi neighborhood for a new seafood brasserie: a chic galleon lit up with mother-of-pearl suspension lamps, with a regatta vibe and Mediterranean cuisine. The evening of our last visit, it was a night for sharing around the big tables, with crispy, long-tentacled octopus, golden plancha-grilled razor clams, crispy yet tender croquettes filled with three types of cheese, and unimpressive gnocchi in a Parmesan-heavy pesto sauce – made up for just as quick by a good lemon tart with basil whipped cream! Wash it all down with an AOP Côtes-du-Roussillon, Idylle du Clos des vins d’Amour (€32), or the famous Rosé de Pétanque from Les Niçois (€5 a glass, €26 a bottle). Naturally, the cocktails can hold their own (Gin To’ Yacht Club, XXL Spritz, Sex on the Beach, €12) and you can even kick back with a round of karaoke on the upper deck. Dishes €9-13. Menus €19 (lunch), €35 (dinner). Brunch €35. // O.B.