restaurant

Les Apothicaires

Les Apothicaires (Lyon)

© Les Apothicaires

  • Date
  • share

After their initial forays into fine dining (Noma, Atala), Tabata, a young chef who previously worked for Bocuse, and Ludovic Mey, who trained at Têtedoie, embarked on a joint adventure in 2016 at this stylish bistro designed by Ludovic’s cousin, Bérengère (linen-free tables, an apothecary wall whose shelves are stocked full of jars, a two-toned banquette lined with cushions). The €44 lunchtime tasting menu was chic and a little skimpy, but often stupefying: a beautiful fatty bass tartare shaken up by umeboshi (salted plums), tangy hibiscus powder and pineapple sage; fantastic (albeit overly salty) creamed corn underneath baby corn cooked in a dark broth of charred kernels and rolled in butter, paired with pickled saffron onions, fermented corn and raw radishes; teeny tiny veal sweetbreads that were crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, with a green peppercorn biscuit and a grilled cucumber purée; parsley oil panna cotta with cherries marinated in kirsch as the superb pre-dessert, followed by a miniature smoked chocolate tart paired with a refreshing peppermint and watercress sorbet. // A.S.

FEELING THIRSTY? Traboules, a Coteaux-du-Lyonnais from Guillaume Clusel (€6 a glass), or a Burgundy white from the Domaine Bourbon (€8), Les Alpes, a legendary Savoie white from the Domaine Belluard (€65 a bottle), a Chiroubles from Karim Vionnet (€42) and, why not, De l’Orée, a Ermitage white from Chapoutier (€220).

PRICE: Menus €37 and €47 (lunch), €69 and €79 (dinner).

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
I WANT IT!

About

Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

Fooding® is a registered trademark.