After their initial forays into fine dining (Noma, Atala), Tabata, a young chef who previously worked for Bocuse, and Ludovic Mey, who trained at Têtedoie, embarked on a joint adventure in 2016 at this stylish bistro designed by Ludovic’s cousin, Bérengère (linen-free tables, an apothecary wall whose shelves are stocked full of jars, a two-toned banquette lined with cushions). The €44 lunchtime tasting menu was chic and a little skimpy, but often stupefying: a beautiful fatty bass tartare shaken up by umeboshi (salted plums), tangy hibiscus powder and pineapple sage; fantastic (albeit overly salty) creamed corn underneath baby corn cooked in a dark broth of charred kernels and rolled in butter, paired with pickled saffron onions, fermented corn and raw radishes; teeny tiny veal sweetbreads that were crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, with a green peppercorn biscuit and a grilled cucumber purée; parsley oil panna cotta with cherries marinated in kirsch as the superb pre-dessert, followed by a miniature smoked chocolate tart paired with a refreshing peppermint and watercress sorbet. // A.S.
FEELING THIRSTY? Traboules, a Coteaux-du-Lyonnais from Guillaume Clusel (€6 a glass), or a Burgundy white from the Domaine Bourbon (€8), Les Alpes, a legendary Savoie white from the Domaine Belluard (€65 a bottle), a Chiroubles from Karim Vionnet (€42) and, why not, De l’Orée, a Ermitage white from Chapoutier (€220).
PRICE: Menus €37 and €47 (lunch), €69 and €79 (dinner).
