For over 10 years now, chef Christophe Dufau has been welcoming guests to this house on a hill in Vence, featuring a garden dotted with sculptures by Paco Sagasta. A locavore chef before it was a thing, he sources all of his ingredients from a 250-km radius, and his menu evolves around what’s being harvested by independent farmers. The day we went for lunch, sitting not far from the luxury chickens that were nibbling away in the garden, the €65 menu featured four amuse-bouches that got things off to a good start. To be more specific: celery meringue with a divine pistachio pesto for dipping, sumptuous homemade breadsticks served warm, rose pissaladière dotted with peas and, to finish (before even starting!), a mushroom focaccia. Followed by: gamberoni from San Remo, “mayonnaise” with shrimp and samphire tempura; grilled grouper, coco de Paimpol beans cooked in olive oil and sprinkled with grated black truffle; goat from the Bergerie des Courmettes in Tourrettes-sur-Loup, smoked over beech wood from the garden; before a few fermented cherries over a bed of pistachios and white chocolate. // L.S.
FEELING THIRSTY? 100% organic wines: a Côtes-de-Provence white from the Domaine Turenne (€9 a glass), a lively Bellet white from the Domaine de Vinceline (€60 a bottle), a Cairanne red from the Domaine de l’Oratoire Saint-Martin (€58)…
PRICE: Menus €65 and €85 (weekday lunch), €75 and €95 (weekend lunch), €75, €95 and €120 (dinner).