Untreated hardwood floors, beige and grey tones, ebony chairs and benches, metal lamps, a classy terrace… Despite being firmly into its adulthood, this cool bistrattoria doesn’t have a single wrinkle. The wines are still natural – a Chianti Majnoni Guicciardini (€5 a glass), a white Venetian I Masieri from Angiolino Maule (€27 a bottle) or a virile Basilicata, Antelio, from the Domaine Camerlengo (€36) – and the menu still focuses on the quality primary ingredients: alluring octopus carpaccio with a salad of wild herbs (€15); burrata molta cremosa (€13); perfect linguine alle vongole dusted with bottarga (€19); and an honest tiramisu (€9). FYI: Les Cailloux also serves coffee Saturday afternoons. Set menus €15-19 (weekday lunch), à la carte €32-52. // M.M.