In her tiny spot (well-worn hardwood floors, high barstools, a tightly packed terrace), Anne Lapierre – the daughter of the illustrious winemaker in the Beaujolais region – keeps all those with a thirst for sulfite-free wines satisfied! Carefully lined up on their shelves, the ammunition pops open like canon fire, while her accomplice Gwenaël Boisrame finishes the job: telline clams with wild garlic pesto; a runny homemade taramasalata; crisp haddock acras; veal kidneys in a cream sauce; addictive matchstick fries; impressive Comté from Arbois… At lunch, there’s hardly a ceasefire with the very economical bistro menu (eg: asparagus and brousse cheese, pigeon and vegetables with jus, a baked apple for dessert). // A.A.
FEELING THIRSTY? The historic family estate’s Morgon (€31.50 a bottle), of course! Along with a lovely Loire Sauvignon from Noëlla Morantin (€5 a glass), a Chenin from Mosse (€27.50 a glass), 07, a Syrah from Hervé Souhaut (€31.50), etc.
PRICE: Dish of the day €11, set menu €14-18 (lunch), plates €4-16 (dinner).