In her tiny spot (well-worn hardwood floors, high barstools, a tightly packed terrace), Anne Lapierre – the daughter of the illustrious winemaker in the Beaujolais region – keeps all those with a thirst for low-intervention wines satisfied! Carefully lined up on their shelves, the ammunition pops open like cannon fire, while her accomplice Gwenaël Boisrame finishes the job: tentacular flash-seared octopus with sautéed seasonal vegetables – zucchini, carrot, romanesco broccoli, etc.; haricots verts salad that was almost too crispy, paired with a delicious lemony brousse cheese; squid tempura with an electric tartar dipping sauce; an honest bowl of mussels topped with a ginger-lemongrass jus; lamb chops and new potatoes; before a heady miniature baba au rhum with tonka bean whipped cream. // G.LeP.
FEELING THIRSTY? In addition to the classic family estate’s Morgon (€37 a bottle), there are a few wines made by friends: a macerated Aude wine from Marc Castan (€6.50 a glass), a Jura Chardonnay from the Domaine de la Tournelle (€31 a bottle), a Mâcon-Chaintré from Philippe Valette (€43), etc.
PRICE: Set menu €14-18 (lunch), plates €4-18 (dinner).
