Le Fooding Guide’s 2015 crush
Frustrated by their experiences at Le Sergent Recruteur, Daniel Baratier and Alexandre Céret deserted it… And they opened Les Déserteurs in 2014 in the former Rino space (a modest and narrow restaurant where Passerini firmly established his reputation) and made an impression on us, winning our Fooding d’amour award in 2015. Two seasons later, their standards are just as high. A random demonstration on the four-course dinner menu: a very graphic multicolored tomato salad with sea beans, very reminiscent of the French Riviera; a charming duo of soft-boiled egg and onion confit ravioli in a lichen broth sprinkled with corn kernels and fresh almonds; a very earthy pairing of bacon-stuffed guinea fowl with a beet, sorrel and cherry mousseline; and beautiful strawberries placed atop an elderberry flower cream and milk ice cream. Before finishing this article, we should mention their impeccable lunch menu for €28 (appetizer, main and dessert) and the colossal wine list, which alternates between heavy hitters (vin jaune from Arbois de la Tournelle for €77 a bottle) and small gems (syrah from La Ferme des Sept Lunes for €27) and wines by the glass (Sierra du Sud, a Côtes-du-Rhône from Gramenon for €6.50). Menus €28 and €48 (lunch), €45 and €60 (dinner). // H.S.P.