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Les Enfants du Marché

Restaurant Les Enfants du Marché in ParisLes Enfants du Marché (Paris) - © Eugénie Gallizioli

By some mystery that defies logic, Parisian gastronomy has often shied away from the lively ambiance of its farmers’ markets. However, Michael Grosman and Laurent Perles (ex-Soma) are tackling this sad reality head-on! Making sparks fly at their traveling watering hole that’s currently located in the Marché des Enfants Rouges, they’ve teamed up with chef Masahide Ikuta, an uncompromising artist of brutalist masterpieces. A true kid at heart, (ex-Table), he embraces his wild side here, with colorful source material from Godart and Annie Bertin – beetroot, carrots, sunchokes, endives… But careful, you’re likely to get caught in the crosshairs! The day we went for lunch, his compositions were practically jumping off the plates: perfect anchovy beignets with black squid ink mayonnaise (€8); a delightful combo of veal brain tempura and squid, intensified by a sublime ginger mayo (€16); naughty raw mackerel and shark, delicately kissed with a blowtorch and sprinkled with feta and a heavenly handful of herbs (€12), incredible with a Languedoc Maccabeu produced by Wilfried Valat (€8); chicken roasted to golden perfect with a rather daring ecosystem of beetroot, sunchokes and endives salad; before, in the guise of a twofold coup de grâce, a sweet brioche atop a chilled citrus soup (€10), and a cheeky sweet potato crème brûlée (€10). The beautiful cheese selection (from Taka & Vermo) is definitely worth exploring as well, along with the excellent range of natural wines: a Loire Syrah from Anne Paillet (€36), a Pinot noir Infrarouge from Kumpf & Meyer (€41), etc. No prix-fixe menus. Eat & run style tapas for €2 a bite. À la carte €38-64. // P.-H.B.  

Getting there

Restaurant Les Enfants du Marché
39, rue de Bretagne
TEL: + 33 1 40 24 01 43
Subway: Temple, Filles du Calvaire, Arts et Métiers