Les Enfants du Marché
By some mystery that defies logic, Parisian gastronomy has often shied away from the lively ambiance of its farmers’ markets. However, Michael Grosman and Laurent Perles (ex-Soma) are tackling this sad reality head-on! Making sparks fly at their traveling watering hole that’s currently located in the Marché des Enfants Rouges, they’ve teamed up with chef Masahide Ikuta, an uncompromising artist of brutalist masterpieces. A true kid at heart, (ex-Table), he embraces his wild side here, with colorful source material from Godart and Annie Bertin – beetroot, carrots, sunchokes, endives… But careful, you’re likely to get caught in the crosshairs! The day we went for lunch, his compositions were practically jumping off the plates: perfect anchovy beignets with black squid ink mayonnaise (€8); a delightful combo of veal brain tempura and squid, intensified by a sublime ginger mayo (€16); naughty raw mackerel and shark, delicately kissed with a blowtorch and sprinkled with feta and a heavenly handful of herbs (€12), incredible with a Languedoc Maccabeu produced by Wilfried Valat (€8); chicken roasted to golden perfect with a rather daring ecosystem of beetroot, sunchokes and endives salad; before, in the guise of a twofold coup de grâce, a sweet brioche atop a chilled citrus soup (€10), and a cheeky sweet potato crème brûlée (€10). The beautiful cheese selection (from Taka & Vermo) is definitely worth exploring as well, along with the excellent range of natural wines: a Loire Syrah from Anne Paillet (€36), a Pinot noir Infrarouge from Kumpf & Meyer (€41), etc. No prix-fixe menus. Eat & run style tapas for €2 a bite. À la carte €38-64. // P.-H.B.