Les Grands Verres
Best décor Guide 2018
At Les Grands Verres, we drink to a cleaner world! Launched by the Quixotic Projects group (Candelaria, Le Mary Celeste, Hero), the Palais de Tokyo restaurant brings together sustainable development (an herb garden, a compost heap, glasses made from recycled wine bottles…) with a glam look via décor by Lina Ghotmeh (a monumental space with a long raw concrete bar, a forest of suspended LED lights, wooden alcoves…). As for the food, transalpine chef Giacomo Seregni (ex-Gordon Ramsay) is in charge. The day we went for lunch, the set menu featured: subtle warm sea bream with a fennel, carrot and sea bean salad; very fresh flash-seared salmon with carrots prepared as both an emulsion and a purée, plus Chinese cabbage; before a good Belleville Brûlerie coffee paired with three gourmet cannoli (praline, chocolate and lemon). Seen on the next table over: mouthwatering veal belly cooked over coals, and a giant chocolate-praline Paris-Brest. Worth noting: the sublime terrace has uninterrupted views of the (non-recyclable) Iron Lady… // J.R.
FEELING THIRSTY? A fine selection of bottles (a Bourgogne-Aligoté from Olivier Morin at €9 a glass, or Les Palennes, a Loire red from Francois Saint-Lô at €62 a bottle), house sodas (lemonade or ginger beer, €5 a glass), Demory beer brewed in Bobigny (€4.50 for 350 ml) and pro cocktails, like the Fig Leaf Highball (Cognac, fig leaf, red shiso, soda) at €11.
PRICE: Menus €23-29 (weekday lunch), à la carte €44-60, brunch €39 (Sunday).