Les Grands Verres
Best décor Guide 2018
Since July 2017, the Quixotic Projects group (Candelaria, Hero, Mary Celeste…) has been welcoming in the crowds at Les Grands Verre inside the Palais de Tokyo. You can’t get any cooler than the décor for this restodrome, designed by Lina Ghotmet – it’s the most Instagenic in all of Paris: a looooong bar made from compressed earth blocks, a dining room with cathedral-like heights, a canopy of hanging light bulbs, wooden alcoves, highly flirtable waiters and bartenders, etc. And when it came to the dishes the day we ate there, the very personal cuisine from Angeleno chef Preston Miller (ex-Breslin in New York) was visibly obsessed with the Mediterranean Sea: an incredibly fresh fattoush salad with pita chips (€11); extremely tender octopus with a creamy celery-chestnut purée, tender potatoes with smoked whey (€28); smoked pork ribs lacquered in homemade harissa with pomegranate molasses (€50 for two); and a delicious financier paired with a rose sorbet and poached rhubarb (€9). To drink, there are high-flying cocktails, like the Tchiki Boum (Calva, Blanche de Normandie, mint, sorrel and caramel, €11), and a beautiful collection of small producer wines: a Mâcon-Villages from the Domaine Valette (€8 a glass), a Sicilian Frappato Cos (€54 a bottle), a Trebbiano from La Cantina Margò (€48). The house has some lofty sustainability goals: they purchase their liqueurs in Keykeg casks, and they compost in house… Set menu €23 (lunch), à la carte €42-66. // C.C.