Les impulsifs

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The impetuous Sarah Nortier and Julien Chiarlini (ex-Solides) set up their new playground near the Place des Carmes in Toulouse. Here’s a bistro that’s equal parts rustic and zen, with lots of bricks, rafters and hardwood floors, where the duo prepares well-dressed and terribly gourmet dishes. The night we went, the surprise five-course menu (€45) featured: delicate scallops prepared as both a carpaccio and a tempura, with a coffee mousseline; thunderous gyoza filled with sausage, lemon confit, tomato and dried apricots, bobbing around in a ginger-lemongrass broth; lovely lamb cooked for 48 hours at a low temperature, placed atop cabbage with a black garlic condiment and an excellent jus de cuisson; a delicious carrot mousse with a hazelnut cream and toasted hazelnuts for the pre-dessert; before a stunning mont blanc with vanilla mousse and a chestnut cream. The bistro lunch menu is also worth exploring – eg.: salsify and Timut pepper velouté; cod with black rice and bok choy; tarte Tatin. // P.L.

FEELING THIRSTY? Natural wines galore: an Alsace Pinot blanc from Josmeyer (€6 a glass), a Gascon white from Le Petit Clos des Vents (€37 a bottle), aSavoy Mondeuse from Giachino (€38)…

PRICE: Menu €18-22 (lunch), €38 and €45 (dinner, food and wine pairings + €27 and €32), kids’ menu €18 (lunch), brunch €25 (Sunday).

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