With wine posters by Tolmer and bottles of pure joy lined up on the load-bearing walls, this cave à manger reflects Paul Decruard (ex-Py-r), David Torelli (ex-Puits Saint Jacques in Pujaudran) and David Gil’s shared passion for organic fermented grapes. Basically, it’s the ideal spot to take a few hits to the nose and bistro slaps to the face. Seated on a white plastic shell chair, the other day we had sautéed leeks and mushrooms served with a sherry and dill mayonnaise, a moussey polenta and slivers of vieux-Rodez cheese; vigorously grilled coalfish over lentils from Le Lauragais, sea beans and pickled fennel; before a home-cooked damson plum and rosemary tart paired with a thick cream from the Pays d’Auge. // A.S.
FEELING THIRSTY? A Bergerac white from the Château Barouillet, an atypical local red from the Château Plaisance (€5 a glass), a Mâcon-Villages from Valette (€32 a bottle), a nice Hérault red from Olivier Cohen (€26) or a legendary Ladoix red from the Domaine Prieuré Roch (€68)… all of which you can take to go.
PRICE: Menu €15 to €19.50 (lunch), à la carte €34-41.