For the past 20 years, the Beziers-born wine vendor Serge Lacombe has been nourishing the 14th arrondissement with his Languedoc-heavy wine shop, Les Crus du Soleil. And he’s been serving food and wine at this rock ’n’ roll bistro (timeworn hardwood floors, brick columns, red barstools) for five years now, along with his business partner, Richard Liogier. In the kitchen, you’ll find Pierre Renouleau (ex-Jules Verne) and John Labadie (ex-Ze Kitchen Galerie), who are in charge of coming up with the impressive cuisine. The night we went, seated on the peaceful terrace: intensely flavorful sautéed clams (€13); organic roast chicken from La Ferme de Vertessec (in Gironde) that was as tender as a Dunlopillo mattress (€25); and a formidable “Merci Jacquot” chocolate cake, prepared using a Jacques Genin recipe, who is a loyal follower of Les Rouquins – much like other great chefs (€11). To drink, southern wines run freely: a white Languedoc from Le Mas d’Espanet (€6 a glass), a gourmet Pic-Saint-Loup red from Le Clos Marie (€7.50), a Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert from Le Mas Foulaquier (€45 a bottle) or a Terrasses-du-Larzac from Le Mas Cal Demoura (€55). Set menus €21-28 (lunch), à la carte €33-63. // M.Z.