Les Trois Coups
Eugénie Flipo strikes thrice in Castellane with her restaurant Les Trois Coups! With her bottle opener in tow, the former sommelier at Madame Jeanne raised the curtain on her wine bar/bistro with a very guinguette feel (a tiny terrace, wax tablecloths, mismatched plates…) located on a little square. Having trained under Robuchon, Giovanni Graziani cooks up punchy tapas and even more striking plates made to share amongst friends. Scrawled on the blackboard, the night’s suggestions included: a delicate grouper taramasalata served by the ladleful, sprinkled with scallions and black sesame seeds; an oeuf parfait in a tomato sauce worthy of an Italian mama, seasoned with chives, spring onions, mint, basil and Parmesan; thin slices of Ibaiama ham with melt-in-your-mouth fat; an intensely flavorful charred swordfish steak that was still tender on the inside, with a creamy fumet, haricots verts and coco de Paimpol beans; before a good amandine tart with apricot and lavender, paired with a scoop of fromage blanc ice cream. At lunch, make way for the set menu of the day – eg.: beef liver deglazed in Banyuls vinegar and served with new potatoes, followed by tiramisu for dessert. // A.H. and A.S.
FEELING THIRSTY? There are natural wines to sip on: a Burgundy Chardonnay from Dominique Derain (€6 a glass), an Hérault Grenache from Julien Peyras (€26), a Tavel from Romain Le Bars (€28), an Ardèche white from Andréa Calek (€37)…
PRICE: Dish of the day €14, set menu €20 (lunch), tapas €8-12, plates €17-20 (dinner).