In this Back to Beirut-style bistro/bar, owner Thomas Codsi (Castor Club, Le Reflet) is bringing Lebanon to the Canal Saint-Martin with a luxurious “snacks and libations” shop. At the bar, there’s a refined Mediterranean ambiance and a cocktail menu with biblical references, like the “Ramène ta mule” composed of gin, walnut eau de vie, pomegranate and lime juice (€12). And in the vintagey-Middle Eastern dining room (old-fashioned tableware, oriental rugs, waxed tablecloths), we dip pita bread into lovely recipes from the Syrian co-chef Randa Alsibai. The night we went, after some classy classics (garlicky hummus, explosively flavorful eggplant caviar, reinvigorating muhammara, from €5 to €7), we dug into some indecently fatty lamb kibbeh (€12), then a sumptuous eggplant fatteh with fried bread, chickpeas and a yogurt dressing (€12). The desserts are in keeping with the rest, like the soft caramel and toasted cashew nut semolina, known as madlouka… (€6). And to drink? There’s arak (€4 a glass) or Almaza beer (€5 for 330 ml). Cocktails €12, menu €25, à la carte €23-25. // M.M.