Argentina is setting the Parisian restaurant scene ablaze! Loco, the Parisian Federation of Carne Albiceleste (Paris 9th arrondissement), is doubling down with an aggressive new spot named Loca. At this pretty space with nude brick walls, big windows and terra cotta, it’s mostly about the meat, but you’ll find some vegetables and fish on the menu composed by the talented chef Federico Martín Suárez. Served à la carte the night we went: sublime grilled cuttlefish on an inspired bed of flash-seared cauliflower and apricots (€12); flavorful and crispy boudin noir, haricots verts and an egg yolk (€11); hearty octopus with leeks and tomatoes grilled on the plancha (€28); stunning bife de chorizo that was tossed on the grill just long enough to get a few black marks, with good parrilla-grilled potatoes (€28, also served rare), or even a superb Iberian suckling pork with sweet potatoes, fries and black garlic purée (€24). You’ll wolf down the magnificent brioche and charred peach flan (€8) in mere minutes at the end of the meal! To drink, there are the some patriotic drinks de la casa, like a biodynamic white Torrontés (€7 a glass) or a very fresh Malbec called Animal (€46 a bottle). Set menu €17 (lunch during the week, example: white asparagus, Argentine rump steak, plum tart). À la carte €25-45. // A.A.