Right near the Saint-Martin church, where Henri IV is said to have been baptized with Jurançon and garlic, the Gers-native chef, Nicolas Lormeau, cherishes the terroir at this split-level restaurant that feels more Scandinavian than Gascon (immaculate white walls, touches of blonde wood, hanging light bulbs…). On the €32 menu the day we went: delicious shredded duck ravioli with olives, sun-dried tomatoes, flash-seared andouille, crispy duck hearts, dried fruits and an arugula emulsion; lamb shoulder cooked for 24 hours, comforting like a blanket on a cold winter’s evening, with a cumin-spiced reduction, silky creamed corn, roasted carrot and a grated cauliflower tabbouleh; before poached figs with sage, a fig-port sorbet and nougatine, for the tranquil finale. // H.Z.
FEELING THIRSTY? Wines from France and Navarre! A Béarn red from the Domaine Mont d’Oraàs (€5 a glass), a dry Jurançon from Charles Hours (€7), a Pacherenc-du-Vic-Bilh from the Château Bouscassé (€23 a bottle) or a Saint-Joseph red from the Domaine Courbis (€37).
PRICE: Set menus €18-20 (weekday lunch), menus €32 (lunch and dinner), €48 (dinner and weekends), kids’ menu €13.