Irresistibly oriented towards the southwest, Olivier Laterrot and Anne Escoffier’s terroir-ist bistro likes to keeps things simple (copper bar, rustic chairs, country inn trends). That day, on our €36 lunch set menu: a liver cake to start, lit up by a Grenache jus court with a touch of Espelette; followed by duck confit with a generous portion of big Tarbes coco beans; before a fig cake served warm with a scoop of rosemary honey ice cream. Some other tasty options: the free-range Basque pork chops glazed in an Armagnac jus (€35) or a classic cassoulet with four types of meat (€28)! And bringing up the rear: Fleur de Cailloux, an Ariège from Thomas Piquemal (€8 a glass), an impressive Irouléguy from Bordaxuria (€58 a bottle). Menus €36 (cheese + €5), cassoulet menu €34, à la carte €43-71. // P.A.