At lunchtime, behind windows filled with vegetable crates, there’s an inevitable line forming between Ma Kitchen’s counter and the three tables. With her clever seasonal bibimbaps, Yoonsun Kim (SAam, rue de Lancry) is a huge success. For €9.80 at lunch: an assemblage of quinoa, peas, cucumber in cream, diced zucchini, a scoop of mashed potatoes with wholegrain mustard, green bean salad, wild rice, sliced carrots and raw purple cabbage. You can pair it with one of the dishes of the day: really tender calamari and shrimp sautéed in Japanese curry; pork-beef meatballs in hoisin sauce; fried tofu with herbs, soy sauce and yuzu; sautéed chicken with chilies and coconut milk or fried ginger chicken with a bittersweet sauce. And don’t forget about the delicious homemade sauces (your choice of chili-honey, soy-sesame or soy-lemon) and the famous desserts (€2.80): strawberry-rhubarb or apple-mango-passion fruit compotes, apple-pear or chocolate tarts, muffins, etc. Wash it all down with a Korean tea or an infusion (jasmine chai, cinnamon-orange, ginger-yuzu…) for €2.80. No alcohol. Bibimbap €8 to €9.80, Set menu options €11 to €13.70. // M.A.-L.