restaurant

Madame Jeanne

Madame Jeanne (Marseille)

© Antoine Antoine

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Tout est bon at Maison Buon – Marseille’s massive food court! A stone’s throw from the Vieux-Port neighborhood, this 700 m² space has been home to the legendary Cave des Papilles and the hip Madame Jeanne since 2016. Here you’ll find the official guru, Laurent Katz, who made a huge catch in netting chef Numa Muller (ex-Simone et Paulette in Arles) to feed the post-lockdown appetites of Marseille. The latter sent out a more-than-reasonably priced €22 prix-fixe menu the day we went, seated on the garden patio: flash-seared sardine fillets with a hibiscus reduction, basil oil and roasted cherries for an uber-graphic appetizer – or lightly flame-charred white asparagus with a vinegary sabayon and pickled mustard seeds; followed by a bonito fillet that was beautifully raw in the center, served with red Camargue rice, taggiasche olives and whole mussels; before a mouthwatering chocolate ganache topped with a black olive brunoise. At night, as we wait for the government curfew to be over (and the arrival of the four-course menu), the kitchen sends out stunning small plates: peas and labneh topped with herring roe; bonito head filled with slurpable juices; a soft-boiled egg with tofu and fresh tarragon…. In short, Madame Jeanne is an excellent host! // Antoine Antoine

FEELING THIRSTY? Natural gems: a prim and proper white (Vilain P’tit Ch’nin from Les Jousset, €6 a glass), a translucent orange wine (Espectacular from Les Vins Pirouettes, €41 a bottle), a striking Arbois red (La Pépée from the Domaine Les Bottes Rouges, €46).

PRICES: Prix-fixe menu €22 (lunch), small plates €6-18 (dinner).

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

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