The last swings of the palas (a wooden pelota racket) have barely finished resonating off the nearby pelota court, before the sound of popping wine corks takes over. At the garnet-colored bar of this bistrinquet, people chat in all different languages with their mouthsfull. But as for the cuisine, it’s an advanced lesson in Basque. The night we went: addictive green chilies spiced with an ’nduja sauce (€6); refreshing honey-glazed carrots on a bed of fresh and aged cheeses (€8); sublime marbled sea bream (€25); or, for a criminal enterprise, an unforgettable suckling lamb shoulder (from the Bordako Etxaldea farm in Urrugne) slow-cooked overnight and sprinkled with parsley, served with lentils and roasted zucchini (€55 for three). The young chef Louis Naepels, who just recently joined the Maitenia adventure, knows how to bring to life these insane ingredients. And for a little something sweet? Simple strawberries in cream (€6) or a kiwi-yogurt crumble (€6). Wash it all down with a natural or organic nectar like a bold Gaillac white from Laurent Cazottes (€4.50 a glass) or a Catalan Montsant Altaroses from Joan d’Anguera (€27 a bottle). There’s no doubt about it: here, jasta ta josta! – we know how to have fun, in Basque! Set menus €12-28 (lunch). À la carte €26-50. // N.K.