Sylvie was raised on her mother’s Vietnamese-Thai concoctions. Vlad’ is a young troublemaker in the Lyonnais bistronomic scene (ex-Les Fils à Maman). Their meeting resulted in Mamasan, a café where Vietnamese street food classics get brought to life. Despite the mafia-inspired décor (flashy neon lights, electric wires, bamboo curtains), the cuisine is quite impressive! Tested and approved the night we went: an invigorating beef salad (from the Institution Bello) barely seared and bombarded with galangal, red onion and fresh mint (€8.50); explosively flavorful chicken stuffed with cilantro, garlic, ginger, lemongrass and chives (€16.90); thunderous nem noung skewers (spicy meatballs) with a peanut dipping sauce, served with white rice and grated carrots (€15.90); not to mention the authentic buns (beef, fish pâté or tofu versions, €15.90) and gluten-free desserts – an exotic pineapple-mango-apple compote shrouded in ginger confit broken biscuits made from rice flour (€7.50), or a dark Vietnamese Marou chocolate tart (€3 at lunch). To drink: Saigon beer (€4.50 for 355 ml) or a Rasteau red from the Domaine de Beaurenard (€5.50 a glass). Set menus €19 (weekday lunch), à la carte €25-35. // N.K.