Mamma Primi

Mamma Primi (Paris)

© Sabri Beny

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“Oh! They didn’t tell you when you came in? We can’t make pasta today at lunch.” Ma che vergogna! So when pasta is on strike, what do you eat at this pasta-obsessed brasserie from the Big Mamma group? Mamma Primi didn’t let us down! In addition to the luxurious décor (pink and blue benches, crossbar mirrors, plants spilling over from the high brass shelves), she served us the following: a very good culatello con cotenna sliced thin; gourmet pizza al tartufo – fior di latte, mustard greens, truffle cream, fresh truffles and truffled saucisson; not to mention the smooth panna cotta with a fig compote and fresh figs – even better when eaten on the terrace under the Batignolles sun! In short, you won’t even miss the fettucine with tomato sauce, burrata, and slow-roasted Datterino tomatoes or the tagliolini with lobster, available on normal days. A friendly piece of advice: make sure to reserve for the first service at lunch, or arm yourself with patience if you want to get a table. // S.L.

FEELING THIRSTY? A nice Nero-d’Avola Mandrasso (€8 a glass), a white Vernaccia-di-Sangimignano La Lastra (€34 a bottle), a red Puglia Anglianico La Marchesana de Polvanera (€29) and cocktails with fun names, like the Rosemary Me (gin, raspberry-rosemary syrup, cranberry and lime, €9).

PRICE: Antipasti 7-12 €, Pasta 12-24 €, Entrées 13-18 €, Pizzas 12-18 €, Desserts 6-8 €.

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