Mampuku (Bordeaux)

© Dante Nolleau

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The favorite playground of Arnaud Lahaut, Gil Elad and Akayo Ota (Miles, Massa), Mampuku celebrates finger food, the souks of Beirut and Osaka’s cheap restaurants. The space is beautifully done, with a giant undulating bar, where small plates take off in groups of four, six or eight, mixing flavors from around the globe. The day we went for lunch, seated under the arched stone ceilings or in the cozy upstairs lounge, we enjoyed tuna tataki dressed with ponzu sauce and tender soba noodles; a cheeky lamb tartare with Turkish spices and preserved lemon, draped in an almond hummus; silky Vietnamese crepes stuffed with slow-cooked pork and Thai basil; a pretty miniature burger (Japanese brioche bread, breaded beef meatballs and yuzu-infused mayonnaise); before a rather ordinary and less exotic olive oil ice cream with strawberry and rhubarb compote for dessert. // R.deC.

FEELING THIRSTY? There are around a dozen sakes (genshu at €8.50, Eau du désir, a junmai at €12.50 a glass) to go with the traveling wine collection: a lovely Canadian Pinot noir (€35 a bottle), Terra de Asorei, a Galician Albariño white (€25), or for something local, a Côtes-de-Bordeaux Château Cadet (€7 a glass).

PRICE: Set menus €19-25 (lunch) and €28-39 (dinner).

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