At the younger brother of the great Miles (the neighboring restaurant owned by Gil Elad and Arnaud Lahaut), the menu French kisses the entire world. Putting on a steamy, sizzling show, you’ll find the dandy chefs sporting grey aprons. In a space with lots of rafters and high ceilings, guests share nimble plates seated around big tables. Written out on the blackboard menu, the night we went, €28 got us: stunning asari udon with palourde clams, black garlic, bok choy and shimeji mushrooms; yellow pollack ta’ashima that could seduce Homer out at sea, rubbed with bergamot and served with an almond-mint hummus and grilled onions; marinated and grilled lemongrass goi vit duck, with pickled vegetables, cassava chips and peanuts; or a Herculean slow-cooked pork shoulder with ginger, refreshed with green onions and Romaine lettuce, known as ssäm. The sweets also cross latitudes as well, like the Italian cannoli (a little too soft) that was given a Japanese twist with yuzu cream cheese, sesame seeds, clementine and kumquat. The wine collection flutters around between a dry and mineral Spanish Gewurztraminer from the Casa Benasal (€5.50 a glass) and a silky Canadian Pinot noir from Cave Spring (€35 a bottle). Menus €19-25 (lunch), €28-39 (dinner). // M.J.-D.