In the Marcel family (places in the 1st, 7th and 18th arrondissements), the one on rue Montmartre has undergone a change of gender, name and diet. Marcelle, the new healthy café, now ticks all the boxes of good contemporary taste: wicker, untreated wood, whitewashed hardwood floors, lots of mirrors, a big communal table and bouquets of country flowers on all three floors. As for the food, Ophélie Barès, a former disciple of Christophe Michalak and the winner of the French TV show Qui sera le prochain grand pâtissier? (France 2), is just as talented with the savory dishes as she is with the sweet ones. Eat in or take it all to go: a very fresh salad of haricots verts, cucumber, broccoli, avocado, edamame, almonds and grapes; delicious casarecce pasta with lemon, chicken, pecorino and black sesame seeds; quinoa risotto with Brussel sprouts and bacon; an exquisite strawberry-rhubarb tart; a divine cream puff; or even some very tempting flaky brioche. Wash it all down with something hot or cold: kale-cucumber-apple juice, clementine-cilantro-turmeric lemonade, chai tea with homemade almond milk, coffee with coconut cream (€2.50 to €6)… And for all those in a rush, don’t forget about the delicious sandwiches (€15 with a salad though!), like the focaccia sandwich with halloumi, onions, avocado and carrots, all freshly made. Breakfast €4-10, lunch €7-16, dessert €6-8. // J.G.